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Sanju Sekihan PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Wednesday, 25 January 2012 04:24
(0 votes)

Today my mother turns 80 years old. In Japan, traditionally, after age 60, these longevity celebrations called choju occur every 10 years. For year 80, it's called the sanju celebration and then there's a special one at age 88 called beiju. The number 8 is very auspicious in Japan and China, where many of these traditions originate. Thus, 88 is especially auspicious. I still remember my grandparents' beiju celebration in Hawaii. Probably because it was such a huge party (my father came from a family of 8 siblings), but most likely it was because the kaleidoscopic image of us, the entire Chinen clan clad in identical bright avocado green shirts and muu muus patterned with big, fat white hibiscus flowers -it was the 70s after all- that it is permanently etched in my brain.

For my mom, Peter and I decided to do something a bit more sedate. We took her to Chinzanso, famous for their beautiful gardens, to have a special kaiseki lunch last weekend while her granddaughter was still in town for the winter holidays and her niece was back from visiting family. Some aspect of the food in each course symbolized longevity such as the cucumber cut into the shape of bamboo, snapper sashimi arranged beautifully with chrysanthemums or braised vegetables cut into the shapes of a turtle and a crane. And of course, the must-have at these celebratory events, sekihan (steamed sticky mochi rice with red beans), which is my mother's favorite. Supposedly, you should serve this to your daughter when she becomes a woman as it is a milestone. But I didn't for my daughter, one because it's not her favorite food, and two because it does seem rather too apropos to serve something in that color for that particular occasion. But I digress; I should be saying that we should be happy that we are women and should rejoice in that when we live this long.

So in celebration of women and especially my mother today, I am making sekihan. This is for you, mom. Thank you for surviving World War II and the atomic bomb in Hiroshima; for marrying my father and moving to Hawaii and taking care of in-laws who were difficult at times; for working your fingers to the bone in hotel housekeeping while Dad worked two jobs to put me through private school; for being happy for me when I introduced Peter to you for the first time; for helping to look after our daughter when I was working; and for being you, ever cheerful, ever lively, even now.

Happy Sanju Birthday!

Sekihan (Red Rice)

Makes about 10 servings

1 kg uncooked mochi rice
200 g dried red beans (sasage or azuki beans)
Salt
Black sesame seeds


Rinse the mochi rice. Add enough water to generously cover all the rice and soak overnight.


The next day, rinse the beans. In a pot, add about triple the amount of water to beans and soak the beans for about 2 hours. (If you don’t have time, you can skip this step).

Bring the beans to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer for about 30-40 minutes, until the beans are tender and cooked through. Drain the beans but keep the liquid, which will be used to moisten and add color to the rice. (I did this step the day before and after cooling the beans and cooking liquid, I transferred them to a covered container and refrigerated overnight. The next day when you're ready to cook the rice, separate the liquid and the beans, reserving the liquid in a separate container.)

Drain the mochi rice. Add the rice to the reserved bean liquid. Add water if the rice is not covered by liquid. Leave to soak for about 2 hours. This will add the reddish tinge to the rice. Drain the rice, but again keep the liquid.

In a steamer lined with cheesecloth, add the drained rice and beans.  Cover and steam on high heat for about 40 minutes to 1 hour. Every 10 minutes or so, open the steamer lid and sprinkle some of the reserved bean liquid over the rice. My bamboo steamer was not big enough (24cm or 9.5 in) to accommodate the entire amount of rice and beans so I had to do the steaming part twice. The rice is done when it is soft, a bit translucent, and not hard in the center. Garnish with black sesame seeds and salt.

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Last Updated on Thursday, 26 January 2012 03:47
 
Olive Focaccia PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Wednesday, 18 January 2012 12:01
(0 votes)

Do you like my new olive picker-upper? Isn't it adorable? I love it. It was a Christmas gift from my parents-in-law who visited Crete this past fall. As soon as I got home, I wanted to try it out with my favorite green olives. It works! Now what to do with all the olives I picked out of the jar? I had just come across an article from the LA Times on Nancy Silverton's recipe via my Pulse News app. It was also conveniently on my iPad so I set it up on the counter and went to work. Warning: you need to start the night before as the recipe calls for a sponge and it takes some hours for the dough to rise twice so give yourself plenty of time. But it's worth it.

The link to the article is here and the video of Nancy Silverton explaining the process is terrific. Next time I'm in LA, I want to eat at Mozza!

Olive_Focaccia

 

Nancy's Basic Focaccia Dough

From the LA Times, May 26, 2011

Total time: 3½ hours, plus 12 to 24 hours resting time for the sponge
Servings: Makes 2 (10-inch) focaccia dough rounds

Note: This recipe requires the use of a stand mixer, 2 (10- by 2-inch) round cake pans and a digital kitchen scale. Cake yeast is available at cooking and baking supply stores, as well as at select gourmet markets. The sponge must be started a day in advance.


Focaccia sponge
Scant 1/8 packed teaspoon cake yeast or 1/16 teaspoon active dry yeast
Scant ½ cup (3.71 ounces) water
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons (3.04 ounces) bread flour

1. In a small mixing bowl (preferably plastic or ceramic), sprinkle the yeast over the water. Set the bowl aside for a few minutes to give the water time to absorb the yeast. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the bread flour until all of the ingredients are thoroughly combined.

2. Cover the bowl tightly with a sheet of plastic wrap, then tightly wrap another piece of plastic wrap or twine around the perimeter of the bowl to further seal the bowl.

3. Set the bowl aside at room temperature (ideally 68 to 70 degrees) until the sponge becomes bubbly and thick, like the consistency of wallpaper paste (thicker than a pancake batter but thinner than dough), 12 to 24 hours.

Focaccia dough
1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (11.04 ounces) water
1/2 cup plus scant 1 tablespoon (.39 ounce) olive oil, divided
Focaccia sponge
2 packed tablespoons plus ¼ packed teaspoon (.39 ounce) fresh cake yeast or 1¾ teaspoons (.195 ounce) active dry yeast
2 tablespoons plus ¾ teaspoon (.56 ounce) rye flour
3 1/3 to 3 2/3 cups (15 to 16.45 ounces) bread flour, more if needed
1 tablespoon (.39 ounce) kosher salt

1. About 3½ hours before you are ready to bake the focaccia, place the water, scant tablespoon olive oil and sponge in the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with a dough hook and, over low speed, add the yeast, rye flour and 15 ounces (3 1/3 cups) bread flour. Mix the ingredients over low speed for 2 minutes to thoroughly combine and form the dough.

2. With the mixer running, slowly add the salt, then increase the speed to medium. Continue mixing the dough until it is smooth and well-formed, and starts to pull away from the bowl, 6 to 8 minutes. Note that the dough will not pull so much that it "cleans" the bowl, but if the dough is too sticky and is not pulling away from the sides of the bowl at all, add a little more bread flour (a spoonful as needed at a time) to achieve the right consistency.

3. While the dough is mixing, lightly grease a bowl large enough to hold the dough when it doubles in size with olive oil. When the dough is ready, turn it out of the mixer into the oiled bowl. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and tightly wrap the perimeter of the bowl with kitchen twine or another piece of plastic wrap to further seal the bowl. Set the dough aside at room temperature (ideally 68 to 70 degrees) until doubled, about 1½ hours.

4. Dust the work surface lightly with flour and turn the dough out onto the floured surface. Acting as if the round has four sides, fold the edges of the dough toward the center. Turn the dough over and return it, folded side down, to the bowl. Cover the bowl again with plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, 50 minutes to 1 hour. (The dough will be puffy and will feel alive, springy and resistant. It will not collapse under the touch of your fingertips.)

5. Pour ¼ cup olive oil into each of the cake pans, and tilt the pans so the oil coats the bottom evenly. Dust the work surface again lightly with flour and carefully turn the dough out onto the floured surface, taking care not to deflate the dough in the process. Divide the dough into two equal segments, each weighing approximately 18 ounces. Place the dough segments in the prepared cake pans and very gently pull the edges just to obtain a roughly round shape. Cover the pans with a clean dishcloth and set aside at room temperature until relaxed and spread to cover about half of the surface of the pans, about 30 minutes.

For Olive and Rosemary Focaccia

1 risen focaccia dough
2 ounces low-moisture mozzarella, cut into generous ½-inch cubes
40 pitted Ascolana olives (or another large pitted green olive)
Olive oil for brushing
20 tufts fresh rosemary
Scant ½ teaspoon Maldon sea salt, or another large flake sea salt

1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Remove the dishcloth from the top of one of the focaccias and, using your fingertips, gently tap down on the focaccia with about 5 light strokes to nudge it toward the edge of the pan; it still might not reach the edges, but don't worry.

2. One at a time, push the mozzarella cubes into the focaccia dough while simultaneously pushing outward to encourage the dough toward the edge of the pan, arranging the cubes evenly over the surface of the dough and pressing them so deep they are almost flush with its surface.

3. Do the same with the olives, arranging them in circular rows between the cheese cubes and pressing them down into the dough and slightly outward.

4. Brush the surface generously with olive oil, then press the rosemary tufts into the dough. Sprinkle over the sea salt. Set the focaccia aside until it is risen and puffed around the toppings, about 30 minutes.

5. Place the focaccia on the center rack of the oven and bake until crisp and golden-brown, 30 to 40 minutes. The focaccia should have risen almost to the top of the pan, and the cheese will be crisp and browned.

6. Move the pan to the bottom of the oven and continue to bake until the bottom crust of the focaccia is deep golden and crisp to the touch, about 5 minutes more.

7. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the focaccia from the pan to a wire rack (use a fork to gently lift and slide the focaccia out of the pan, careful of any hot oil that may still be at the bottom of the pan). Brush the surface of the focaccia once more with olive oil. Set the focaccia aside to cool slightly — or as long as you can resist it.

8. Transfer the focaccia to a cutting board. Halve the focaccia using a long knife, then cut one-half into 4 wedges (don't cut the other half until you are ready to eat it).

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Last Updated on Wednesday, 18 January 2012 12:30
 
Molasses Cookies v. Wagashi PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Thursday, 15 December 2011 00:06
(0 votes)

It's the time of year to stay warm, and one sure way to heat the house up is by baking. I've been baking chocolate cakes, apple turnovers, oven-braised beef cheeks and gingery molasses cookies. These molasses cookies are from the White House kitchen, and the recipe called for candied ginger pieces. Of course, not having any candied ginger in the house, but having lots of fresh ginger always, I used only fresh. I was afraid the extra moisture might affect the cookie, but it turned out okay. Very gingery, very spicy, very good and very easy.

 

It's also the time of year in Japan for oseibo gift giving. We received these snowball Kyoto wagashi (Japanese style sweets) which consist of, from left, coarse azuki bean paste, fine azuki bean paste, coarse azuki bean and fine white bean paste all coated thickly with a silky smooth sugar icing. Beautiful.

Kyogashi

Two very different holiday treats. Which do you prefer?

Happy Holidays!

White House Molasses Cookies

My yield was about 35 cookies

Ingredients

  • 2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
  • Pinch ground white pepper
  • 6 ounces (170g) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup molasses
  • 1 large egg
  • 2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger
  • 1/2 cup chopped candied ginger ( I substituted 1/2 cup of very loosely packed chopped fresh ginger)
  • Granulated sugar, for rolling

Directions

Sift the dry ingredients together. Beat the butter and brown sugar with molasses until well combined and fluffy. Add the egg and ginger and beat 3 minutes. Add the flour mixture with the machine on low and then stir in the candied ginger (or fresh ginger) by hand, do not over mix. Chill until the dough is firm and no longer sticky, at least 1 hour or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Scoop with small ice cream scoop, about 1 tablespoon, and roll into a ball and then roll in granulated sugar. Place on parchment-lined baking sheets, about 2 inches apart and press flat, 1/4-inch high.

Bake about 16 minutes or until the edges are firm and the tops feel set to the touch. Cool 1 minute on the baking sheets and then carefully transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

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Last Updated on Thursday, 15 December 2011 01:06
 
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