07/22Akajiso SodaJan Opdahl
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Ad Hoc Brownie Love PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Sunday, 07 February 2010 07:20
(0 votes)

I'm in love...with Thomas Keller and his new cookbook, Ad Hoc at Home. I saw this hefty tome at the Tokyo American Club library the other day, sitting on the shelf like a wallflower, as if waiting for me to pick it up and ask it to dance. So I did, and I couldn't let go. The story of the restaurant Ad Hoc is fascinating, the photos are gorgeous, the food simple, but what I loved most about the book were the "lightbulb moments" tricks of the trade and the commentary in each recipe that we, home cooks, will no doubt find eternally useful. But before I have to return the book (I am going to buy it now!), I thought I'd try out a recipe. I decided on the brownie recipe since I had all the ingredients this time, thanks to a Kappabashi shopping spree earlier in the week. As you may know, I like to make things with whatever I have on hand and make do. That is one of the joys of cooking; no recipe is set in stone and really shouldn't be. We should all be free to tinker to our heart's content.

Warning: These brownies are rich! If you love chocolate, you'll love these brownies. Just in time for Valentine's Day. Indulge and fall in love!

Brownies adapted from Ad Hoc at Home by Thomas Keller

Makes 28 small brownies

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 sticks (340g) unsalted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon chunks

3 large eggs

1 3/4 cups granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) chocolate chunks, bittersweet (I used 66%)

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Keller uses a 9 inch silicone square mold since it prevents the edges from overcooking. If using a metal or glass baking pan, prepare it by buttering and flouring it.

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.

Melt half the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Put the remaining butter in a medium bowl. Pour the melted butter over the bowl of butter and stir. The butter should look creamy, with small bits of unmelted butter bits and should be at room temperature.

In the bowl of stand mixer fixed with the paddle attachment, mix the eggs and sugar on medium speed about 3 minutes, or until thick and pale. Mix in the vanilla. On low speed, add one-third of the dry ingredients, then add one-third of the butter, and continue alternating the remaining flour and butter. Add the chocolate and mix to combine. (The batter can be refrigerated for up to one week at this point).

Spread the batter evenly in the pan. If using a silicone mold, place it on a baking sheet and slide it into the preheated oven. Bake for 40-45 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out pretty clean with a few moist crumbs sticking to it. Cool in the pan on the baking sheet for a bit until the brownie firms up. Transfer the mold to the wire rack to continue cooling until the brownie is just about room temperature.

Run a knife around the edges if not using a silicone mold, and invert the brownie onto cutting board to cut into squares. If the brownie threatens to fall apart when attempting to remove it in one piece, cut a few bigger pieces and remove them, then cut into smaller squares. A friend tells me that a plastic knife is indispensible when cutting a moist brownie, but I didn't have one in the house!

 

 

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Last Updated on Tuesday, 09 February 2010 12:15
 
Make Do Pull-Apart Rolls PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Saturday, 06 February 2010 07:58
(2 votes)

When Michael Ruhlman posted a buttermilk dinner rolls recipe on his blog, ruhlman.com, I just had to try it. I'm always on the lookout for a good roll recipe. The problem is that I can't find buttermilk here in Tokyo. I've often substituted half yogurt and half milk whenever a recipe calls for buttermilk so I thought I'd give the recipe a try. Another problem cropped up when I started assembling the ingredients: I had only about 100 grams of yogurt. But wait, I had some cream left over, that makes about 200 grams of liquid now. Looking in the fridge, I had milk, but only low fat. Well, let's just make do and see how the bread turns out.

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Looking at the warm, sesame seed sprinkled rolls and the golden glazed crust, I just couldn't wait to sink my teeth in. Yup, this recipe is a keeper for me. I don't normally sleep on a pillow at night, but I could sleep on these pillowy rolls every night. Sweet dreams!

Pull-Apart Dinner Rolls

Adapted from Michael Ruhlman's Buttermilk Cluster Rolls

Makes 12 large rolls

28 ounces (800g) or 51/2 cups bread flour

20 ounces (570g) buttermilk or half yogurt and half milk

1/4 ounce (7g) active dry yeast

1/2 ounce (14g) or 1 tablespoon kosher salt

11/2 ounce (40g) or 2 tablespoons honey

1 egg

1 teaspoon sesame seeds or poppy seeds (optional)

9 inch or 21cm round cake pan

Combine the flour, buttermilk (or yogurt and milk), yeast, salt and honey in the bowl of a stand mixer. Attach dough hook and mix on medium until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover and let rise til double in volume, about 2- 3 hours depending on room temperature.

Butter the cake pan on the bottom and on all sides. Cut parchment paper to fit on the bottom and lay it on the bottom of the buttered pan. Turn the paper over and smooth the paper over the bottom of the pan. Turn dough out onto counter and knead well. Divide the dough into 12 equal portions and form each into a tight ball, rolling them on the counter. Arrange the balls around the pan, it will be a tight squeeze. Cover the pan with a damp towel and let rise for about one hour.

Preheat oven to 200°F or 400°C. Just before baking, beat the egg with a touch of water. Brush the egg wash gently over the rolls and sprinkle sesame seeds all over. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until internal temperature reads 195-200°F or 90-93°C. Let rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

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Last Updated on Sunday, 07 February 2010 10:30
 
Cream Puffs PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jan Opdahl   
Tuesday, 26 January 2010 11:51
(1 vote)

After making pavlova, what do you do with the egg yolks? After making two pavlovas, what do you do with 8 egg yolks?! I had made a vanilla pastry cream which used up 3 egg yolks because I was going to use that as part of the topping on the pavlova. In the end, I decided against using the pastry cream. So what to make? A cream puff would be a wonderful alternate home for the vanilla cream. I haven't made cream puffs since high school. It's been awhile. And even better, a chocolate pudding-like filling would use up the rest of the yolks.

The vanilla pastry cream and cream puff recipes are adapted from one of my favorite cooking magazines, Fine Cooking. The holiday edition from 2006 is turning out to be a classic, and one which I seem to be turning to often. The pastry cream is combined with whipped cream to give it a more light and creamy texture. The chocolate pudding cream recipe yields a bit more so you will end up with more chocolate-filled puffs than vanilla. Goodness!

Cream Puffs

Makes about 24 small puffs

1/4 cup (56g) unsalted butter

1/2 tsp. salt

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

3 large eggs

Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F). Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, bring the butter, salt and 1 cup of water to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the flour. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon to cook the dough for about 2 minutes. The mixture will be thick and form a ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan. There will be a thin layer of dough that will stick to the bottom of the pan. 

Remove the ball of dough into the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low until the dough cools down a bit, about 3-5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time. The dough will separate after each addition of the egg, but the mixture will come together. After the last egg is added to the mixture, mix the dough well. Scrape down the bowl and beat on medium low for another 30 seconds.

Using a regular spoon, scoop out the smooth dough and drop it on the parchment lined baking sheet, spacing each puff about 2 inches apart as the dough will puff up. Bake for about 15-20 minutes or until puffy and golden brown. Cool completely on a wire rack before filling.

 

Vanilla Pastry Cream

1 cup whole milk

3 large egg yolks

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 vanilla bean, scraped or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Warm the milk in a saucepan over medium heat until tiny bubbles appear. Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale yellow. Add the cornstarch and salt and whisk well. Pour the hot milk into the yolk mixture 1/2 cup at a time, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens to the consistency of thick pudding, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and scrape the cream into a clean bowl. Whisk in the vanilla and lay a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface. Cover the bowl with another sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

 

Chocolate Pudding Pastry Cream

1 cup whole milk

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

5 large egg yolks

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Warm the milk in a saucepan over medium heat until tiny bubbles appear. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate chips in a heatproof bowl in the microwave until softened, about 1 minute. Whisk in the egg yolks and sugar. Add the cornstarch and whisk well. Pour the hot milk into the chocolate mixture slowly, 1/2 cup at a time, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until mixture thickens to the consistency of thick pudding, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and scrape the cream into a clean bowl. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface. Cover the bowl with another sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

To assemble cream puffs:

1 cup (200ml) heavy cream

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Beat cream with sugar until soft peaks form. Do not overbeat.

Fold in about 1/2 cup of whipped cream to the vanilla pastry cream. Fold in the remaining whipped cream to the chocolate pudding pastry cream.

Insert a round tip in the bottom of a plastic pastry bag. Fold over the top of the bag and fill it with the vanilla cream.Unfold the top of the bag and twist shut.

On the bottom of each cream puff, make a slit using a small knife. Insert the pastry bag tip into the slit and pipe in the cream filling until some of the filling oozes out of the slit. Repeat until all the vanilla cream is used up. Fill the same bag with the chocolate cream and fill the rest of the cream puffs in the same way.

Dust some powdered sugar on the vanilla-filled cream puffs and some cocoa powder on the chocolate-filled puffs.

Cream_puff_undersideCream_puff_filled

 

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Last Updated on Tuesday, 26 January 2010 13:16
 
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